August 16, 2002

Turkey (day 3)


Here it is half past twelve and I'm only just now starting to write. This page will be telegraphic rather than poetic. Maybe I should just make a list?

Breakfast - Hatice's rooftop. The exact same food as yesterday, same low round folding table, same view and cool breeze.

Hatice's mother Kamile gave Mom seeds for peppers, tomatoes, and pumpkins.

Sultan posted to the weblog.

Hatice fixed a link on her old weblog and learned to make them on her new one.

Hatice talked about village politics, the social constraints she faces as a woman in the village, her work for Barbara, and how she has become braver and more confident.

Took photos for Barbara of the new glasses now worn by the friend who paints beautiful tablecloths.

Back at Barbara's house, kilim weavers had made dramatic progress since yesterday. Took photos.

SHP chose some kilim yarn to buy from the weavers for a knitting project - we figured out how many meters in one ball, so we can tell by weighing the yarn whether she's getting the amount she needs.

Kilim women put a scarf first on me and then Mom, and posed with us at the loom, each in turn. Their idea. Funny pictures.

On our own for lunch - went to the Park Restaurant again. Turkish pizza and beer.

Crazy Ali's, where I bought two spindles, the iron kilim weft-beater I'd seen, and a small brass hand (meant to be a door knocker, but I like it as a paper weight). SHP bought a lapis and silver ring, and negotiated for the yogurt bucket she wants. Ali will take to Nevsehir and have it repaired to hold water and then she will buy it.

Crazy Ali read us another poem, and I said I'll make a video of him tomorrow.

Went with Hatice and Sultan to interview Baris's mother on video.

Sultan showed us the apartment she and Baris live in, with new furniture, wedding pictures, much handmade lace, and her wedding dress. Baris's mother has an apartment downstairs.

Baris's mother talked about her life, and how much she misses her husband (dead for nineteen years now), as Hatice translated. Somehow I got her to sing Turkish children's songs on camera. Hatice and Sultan got the giggles, but she kept singing different songs, one after another.

We sorted digital photos back at Barbara's.

Met Hatice and brother Ali, who drove us to the red valley to watch the sun set. Ali knew everyone there who was not a tourist. We were almost too late, but took a picture which is now my desktop design.

Went to Hatice's house for supper. Met her grandfather and young cousin. Ate: Soup, Manti - a sublime combination of little bowtie pasta with yoghurt and a meat sauce (Hatice will give us the recipe tomorrow), a bean course, and a dessert of soft oily flour cake drenched in honey. The call to prayer was heard from their rooftop as we drank tea. Father and grandfather ate mint leaves before going to the mosque, as there had been garlic in the yoghurt sauce on the manti.

Back to Barbara's after dinner, where we burned a CD of photos to share tomorrow, sorted and resized pictures, labeled tapes, recharged batteries.

A nightcap, some writing, and to bed.

Posted by EGP at August 16, 2002 1:59 PM