July 23, 2003



This caught the mood at the summit. The views escape description.

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Mountain view


I think this person had the right idea. Sit and look and think.

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Banff Gondola


The gondola runs up to the top of Sulphur Mountain (and down again). Fifty-one degrees doesn't sound nearly as steep as it feels.

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Worshipful moose


Detail of stained glass window at St. George's in the Field.

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This fence ran along behind St. George's in the Field, the Anglican church I visited in Banff.

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A study in greens.

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The bend in the path always suggests an unfinished story.

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River pebbles


Pebbles in the Bow River, Banff. I liked looking at the transition from dry to wet. You'll have to imagine the sound of rushing water.

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July 19, 2003

Hike to the Hoodoos

We went walking in the mountains; a single photo can't catch the scale of the views.

I set up a little slideshow sequence to zip through a couple of scenes as we walked to the Hoodoos, a weathered rock formation. When it works, maybe you can get a sense of what it was like.

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July 12, 2003



A self-portrait for the Fourth of July. (I was holding sparkler in one hand and camera in the other.)

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July 11, 2003

Mt. Ericiyes


Last sunset in Turkey. Mt. Ericiyes, as seen from the rooftop restaurant of the Hilton Kayseri, while we waited for dinner.

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Selçuk mosque - interior


Inside the Selçuk mosque in the center of Kayseri, five minutes before the call to prayer.

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Selçuk mosque - arches


Arches inside the mosque divided and supported the space.

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Selçuk mosque


Tower seen from a window within the mosque.

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Mosque - detail


Elaborate stone knotwork beside the doorway to the Selçuk mosque in the center of Kayseri.

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Stone bird


A carved stone bird in the garden of the Kayseri Ethnographic Museum reminded me of the partridge in the pear tree...

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Ceiling design


A brightly-painted ceiling in the Ethnographic Museum. More elaborate than the simple painted beams, but beautiful.

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Painted beams


A ceiling in the Ethnographic Museum. I liked the color and pattern.

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Stone niche


A detail of the wall just beside the door to the restored Ottoman-era house that holds the Ethnographic Museum.

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Blue and green


Ceramics on display in the Ethnographic Museum.

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Spices in Kayseri


Another photo of spices. This time I was at the edge of the bazaar in Kayseri. I bought half a kilo of pul biber, red pepper, to bring home with me.

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Here you can see a road through the Assyrian traders' colony outside the main settlement at Kultepe. I like the way you can look off into the distance and see that the thread of the present-day road lines up with the ancient one.

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You can see a grave and the remains of an amphora in this house.

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Our guide Remzi shows Ellen a photo (see below).

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Finds at Kultepe


A photo of the archaeological team and some of the finds at the Kultepe site. Many of the artifacts are now in the Kayseri Archaeological Museum.

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Preparing to warp the loom


Lutfiye sits and ties off loops of warp thread as they are wound around the post in front of her.

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Tying warp


Hatice ties each loop of the warp as it is wrapped around the post in front of her.

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Winding the warp


Preparing the warp for the big loom is a three-person job. Hatice and Lutfiye sit and tie off each loop, while Hatice's daughter-in-law walks back and forth and back and forth, casting the loops of warp thread around the warp posts.

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Down the hill


The road down to Barbara's house is steep and cobbled.

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Most people use cars, small trucks, or ride in minibuses, but you do still see plenty of wagons in the village.

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Lantana in bloom. I took another version of this picture, without Jen's hand, but I like looking at the bracelets beside the blossoms.

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Pension steps


Ortahisar has a beautiful pension, where a friend of Hatice works. We got a tour of the place, and everywhere I looked, I wanted to take another picture. Flowers were blooming in every corner of the courtyard and the rooms were furnished with antiques and period textiles.

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Stack of stools


This is an especially good-looking stack of them, but you see these stools everywhere you go - and they are very comfortable. If they folded, I'd have tried to bring some back...

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Another rug - detail


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Rug detail


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Street scene


Not an unusual view. I like the colors, though.

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Bride for a moment


Sultan thought Jen should try on her wedding dress, so Jen did!

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Sultan and Jen, talking about Sultan's ring.

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Old Ortahisar


Part of the older village, as seen from the hisar, or rock castle, in the center of town.

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A bowl of fruit from the weavers' gardens: apricots and a small green stone fruit which tasted like a tart apple.

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Flowers as well as vegetables and herbs grow in rooftop containers.

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Rooftop garden


Container gardening on Hatice's family's roof terrace.

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Spices in Urgup


Holding my camera at waist-level and pointing it in the general direction of the men selling spices, I was able to grab this image in the Urgup bazaar.

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Urgup bazaar


Market day in Urgup. I didn't buy anything, but the fruits and vegetables were beautiful.

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Underground city


A classroom in the underground city of Derinkuyu. Thousands of early Christians could live underground in this city for a couple of months at a time. They had a church, a baptistry, a school, storage and sleeping areas, wells and secret ventilation and chimneys, traps and defensive systems, and space for animals to live. Nine of fifteen levels have been excavated and restored. There are dozens, maybe hundreds, of other cities like this in the region, mostly unexplored. Not a place for a claustrophobic, but fascinating. Cool on a hot day, too!

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Carpet and slippers


Looking down, during the weavers' interview. I like all the patterns together.

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The weavers sat for a video interview, telling us (as young Hatice translated) about their childhood and the village customs and culture of their youth.

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Having cut the kilims from the larger loom, the weavers work on smaller projects on separate looms: bookcovers and belts.

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July 10, 2003



Early morning light in Barbara's courtyard turned all the stone gold.

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Mulberry tree


This tree looked like something from a fairy tale. As I look at the picture, I keep expecting someone to appear in the small doorway...

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Vine and window


I loved the quality and color of the light in Barbara's garden.

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A grape vine and its shadow.

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Ripe fruit


Cherries from a neighbor's garden made the best dessert, eaten straight from the tree.

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Through the tunnel


Down in the lower garden, two levels down from where we ate, we walked through a narrow valley and a tunnel through the rock.

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Picnic supper


Mmmm. Guveç, pilau, salad, and bread. You can't see the sweet watermelon we had for dessert.

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In the garden


Ahmed in the family garden, on the night we had a picnic there.

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Çay, Turkish tea in tulip-shaped glasses.

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Ahmed and Kamile


Hatice and Sultan's father and mother.

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Sultan edits video


Sultan tries her hand at video editing, while Jen (left) and Hatice (behind) look on.

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Video lesson


Hatice edits video on the new laptop. You can see this particular edited clip if you click on the "download file" link in the June 27th kilimwomen weblog entry.

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Rugs in the courtyard


Young Hatice spread many small kilims in Barbara's courtyard in order to take digital photos of them for the kilimwomen weblog. I loved looking at all of them at once.

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Generations together


Hatice the weaver and her granddaughter, who comes with her to work.

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One of the weavers, finishing the fringe on a small kilim (and laughing at me).

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Zelve - another view


Another view of cave dwellings in Zelve. Early Christians lived here in Cappadocia. In nearby Goreme are some beautiful Byzantine-era churches carved into the cliffs. Incredible frescos and paintings - some restored, some not quite - but no photography allowed there.

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In the open air museum at Zelve you can explore two valleys of ancient cave dwellings. Breathtakingly beautiful. I may try to post some panoramas later.

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Avanos - vases


These vases were painted by the potter's grandmother with Hittite motifs and motifs from kilims.

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Avanos is a village celebrated for its pottery. This workshop and store was in a cave.

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Saruhan - gallery


This columned arcade ran alongside the central courtyard.

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Saruhan - from above


We climbed the stone stairs to the roof. I love the glimpse of the countryside beyond the walls of the caravansarai.

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A Selçuk han from the 13th century near Avanos. This was a stop on the Silk Road between Kayseri and Aksaray.

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July 4, 2003

Women walking, Ortahisar


In the street which runs past Barbara's house, near sunset.

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Ürgüp street


Looking down into the street from a rooftop terrace restaurant. I liked the criss-crossing clotheslines.

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Hatice shows a doormat


This is one of the smaller kilims the women have been weaving. It could be used on a table, as an area rug, or as a wall hanging. The name doormat doesn't do it justice.

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First Breakfast


Jen and Ellen enjoy a first breakfast in Turkey.

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